Three Day Diary of a Chef in Madrid

By Adam Beckey

Wonder what to do in Madrid, well follow our chefs as they take you on there culinary and cultural (well a small amount of, food is culutre though isn’t it?) tour of Madrid.

A Food-Focused Work Trip to Madrid: Tortillas, Tapas & Questionable Self-Control

Madrid was technically a work trip — but spiritually, emotionally, and gastronomically… it was a three-day mission to eat my way through Spain’s capital with minimal interruption.

There was tapas. There was jamón. There was churros-at-midnight behaviour. And there was just enough culture squeezed in between meals to stop this from being classified as a food binge (even though it absolutely was).

Also: Madrid eats late. Like, late late. Lunch is a whole event, dinner starts when I’d normally be thinking about pyjamas, and somehow there’s still time for a pre-dinner drink. The city runs on cañas (small beers), vermouth, and the firm belief that you can always fit in “one more bite”.


Day 1 — Arrival and Immediate Tapas Behaviour

We landed in Madrid ready to eat and got straight to it — no warm-up, no hesitation, no pretending we were “just going to grab something light”.

First stop: La Tintoria, where I had a classic Spanish tortilla. Soft in the middle, golden outside, perfect texture, no notes. I also learned quickly that in Madrid tortilla is serious business. People have loyalties. People have opinions. I support this level of passion.

Next: Museo del Jamón, where we shared plates of jamón and salamis. Salty, simple, elite. This was my first proper reminder that jamón in Spain isn’t just food — it’s a lifestyle. Possibly a religion.

Lunch took us to Mercado San Antón, where I tried tortilla with migas, plus artisan cheeses and cured meats. The market was buzzing — lively, casual, and designed for grazing. It’s the kind of place where you accidentally eat three meals and call it “snacking”.

As evening arrived, we went to Bodega de la Ardosa, which felt like stepping into the Madrid tapas hall of fame. We ordered battered fish, olives, and Teruel ham, and stayed longer than planned because that’s what happens in proper Spanish bars: you stop checking the time and just keep ordering “a few small things”.

Dinner at Mesón de la Tortilla was… mixed. The tortilla didn’t live up to the hype (I’m still recovering emotionally), but the chicharrones were excellent — crispy, rich, and absolutely worth it.

We ended the night at El Minibar with melted goat’s cheese, tomato jam, and salsa verde, then went full Madrid and finished with churros dipped in thick hot chocolate. Not cute brunch churros. Proper late-night reward churros. Madrid doesn’t do “one little dessert”. Madrid does dessert with commitment.


Day 2 — Royal Palace and Calle Ponzano (aka the Main Event)

Day two started with meatballs and goat’s cheese at Matador, because we needed “energy” for sightseeing. (Energy meaning: more eating.)

We visited the Royal Palace of Madrid, wandered through grand rooms and manicured grounds, and did a good amount of walking — mostly so I could convince myself I was earning my next tortilla.

Lunch was at Pez Tortilla, where I ordered the chistorra tortilla. The spicy sausage added depth and made it one of my favourites of the trip. Honestly, Pez Tortilla became a recurring character in this story, and I regret nothing.

Then came the evening: Calle Ponzano — one of Madrid’s liveliest food streets and basically a long line of temptations. The vibe is simple: hop from bar to bar, order a drink, and let tapas happen to you.

At Arima Basque Gastronomy, we tried Basque-inspired dishes including gildas (salty little skewers of olive, anchovy and pickled pepper — tiny but powerful) and blue cheese croquettes. Bold flavours, great cooking, no unnecessary fuss. Just vibes and excellent snacks.

Dinner at Candeli Restaurante Ponzano was one of the trip highlights. The artichoke stuffed with oxtail was unreal, and the patatas fritas with egg and black truffle was pure indulgence — rich, savoury, and absolutely the correct decision. I finished with cheesecake because if you’re going to do it, do it properly.


Day 3 — Final Tortillas and a Brief Nod to Football

Before heading home, I returned to Pez Tortilla one last time because I’m loyal (and also weak). I had a goat’s cheese tortilla and croquetas de guiso de abuela — creamy croquettes filled with grandmother-style stew. Comforting, rich, and exactly what I wanted.

Madrid croquetas deserve their own paragraph. They look innocent. They are not. A good croqueta is crisp outside, molten inside, and impossible to eat without either burning your mouth or losing dignity. Worth it every time.

Our final stop was the Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, which was a nice change of pace from food to football — a cultural moment, a Real Madrid pilgrimage, and my only proof that this trip involved something other than tapas.

Then it was time to fly home.

Final Thoughts

Madrid delivered exactly what I hoped for: outstanding tortillas, incredible jamón, and neighbourhoods packed with bars where “just one drink” is never just one drink.

My favourite moments came from wandering Calle Ponzano, the late-night churros, and discovering just how many tortillas can be eaten in 2.5 days (answer: more than you think, and still not enough).

Even on a work trip, Madrid proves that food is the experience — and I would happily return with a longer itinerary, stronger trousers, and a serious commitment to “one more bar”.

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